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Mt Tam is the crown jewel of American soft-ripened cheeses, a buttery masterpiece that rivals the finest French Bries. Cheese lovers seek it out for its perfect balance of mushroomy complexity and rich creaminess, while chefs treasure it as the quintessential expression of Northern California's dairy excellence. This cheese captures the essence of its foggy coastal origins in every velvety bite.

I'll walk you through everything you need to know about selecting, storing, and savoring Mt Tam cheese: whether you're building the perfect cheese board or looking to elevate your next culinary creation.

— Francesco

Explorefrom the couch

Mt Tam offers a sensory journey that begins with its bloomy white rind's delicate mushroom aroma. The initial taste presents rich cultured cream with subtle lactic tanginess that evolves into notes of fresh butter and white mushrooms. The texture progresses from silky at the rind to dense and fudgy toward the center, creating a mouthcoating richness that slowly melts away, leaving lingering hints of salted butter and meadow herbs.

Developed in the early 2000s, it represents the American artisanal cheese renaissance, drawing inspiration from French cheese traditions while celebrating California's exceptional dairy.

There is only one type of Mt Tam, characterized by its mushroomy rind, buttery paste, and rich mouthfeel. While it doesn't come in varieties like many other cheeses, its flavor profile evolves dramatically through its ripening period, ranging from mild and creamy when young to complex and earthy when mature.

Mt Tam is exclusively produced by Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station and Petaluma, California. The cheese's distinctive character comes from organic milk sourced from Straus Family Creamery in Marin County, where Jersey cows graze on sweet coastal grasses influenced by the foggy maritime climate. This terroir directly translates to Mt Tam's unique flavor profile.

Pickat the store

Look beyond the recognizable label and assess the cheese's condition: a perfectly ripe Mt Tam transforms a good cheese board into an unforgettable experience.

Mt Tam is the flagship triple-cream from Cowgirl Creamery (Point Reyes Station, California), so the regional variety is the variety. What changes is age on arrival.

Look

  • Color. The rind should be white to ivory without any pink, orange, or gray discoloration
  • Watch out: Form. Slightly bulging sides indicate proper ripening; avoid severely collapsed or overly firm wheels
  • Ripeness. Some minor "weeping" at room temperature is normal; excessive liquid suggests over-ripening

Smell

  • Mushroomy complexity. Gentle earthy notes reminiscent of button mushrooms with buttery undertones
  • Balance test. Should smell inviting without ammonia sharpness, which indicates over-ripening
  • Watch out: Warning signs? Strong ammonia or sour milk smells suggest the cheese is past its prime

Feel

  • Yielding firmness. Should gently give under slight pressure; the center should be soft but not liquid
  • Cream line. A visible progression from firmer center to creamier edges indicates proper ripening
  • Watch out: Warning signs? Rock-hard center (underripe) or uniformly runny texture (overripe)

Origin

While Mt Tam is a specific American original, it belongs to the broader family of triple-cream soft-ripened cheeses pioneered in France and now produced globally.

FlagsPlace and description
France. The birthplace of triple-creams like Brillat-Savarin and Pierre Robert
United States. Home to artisanal producers focused on local ingredients and European techniques
Italy. Creates rich, soft-ripened varieties with regional milk characteristics

Label

  • Watch out: Producer. True Mt Tam is made exclusively by Cowgirl Creamery; verify the source to avoid imitations
  • Freshness Dating. Look for clear production or "best by" dates; aim for cheese with at least a week before its date
  • Retail Environment. Purchase from shops with dedicated cheese counters and proper storage conditions
  • Handling. Cheese should be properly wrapped, stored at appropriate temperatures, and handled minimally
  • Price Point. Quality comes at a premium; suspiciously inexpensive "Mt Tam" may be mislabeled or inferior

If You Can't Find It

Usein the kitchen

Preparation

  • Cutting Technique. Use a wire cheese cutter or warm, clean knife; cut like a cake from center outward for even portions
  • Watch out: Rind Appreciation. The bloomy rind is edible and contributes essential flavor; avoid trimming unless personally preferred
  • Watch out: Serving Caution. Avoid serving on reactive metal surfaces; ceramic, glass, or wood plates maintain flavor integrity
  • Ripeness Assessment. Gently press the surface: slight give indicates perfect ripeness; too firm means underripe, while excessive softness suggests overripening
  • Regional Twist. In Northern California, Mt Tam is often paired with local sourdough bread and honey, creating an interplay between tangy bread, sweet honey, and creamy cheese. By contrast, East Coast cheese shops often recommend serving it with tart fruit preserves to balance its richness.

Pairings

  • Sparkling Wine. Californian sparkling wines mirror Mt Tam's origin story perfectly.
  • Honey. The floral sweetness creates a delightful contrast with Mt Tam's savory notes. Wildflower or orange blossom honey accentuates the cheese's subtle herbal qualities.
  • Fresh Stone Fruits. Peaches, nectarines, and plums offer juicy acidity that balances Mt Tam's richness. The subtle almond notes in stone fruits harmonize with the cheese's nutty undertones.
  • Toasted Walnuts. The earthy crunch provides textural contrast while amplifying Mt Tam's mushroomy qualities. The slight bitterness of walnuts highlights the cheese's buttery sweetness.

Comparisons

This comparison helps position Mt Tam within the soft-ripened cheese family. While all share similarities in production method, Mt Tam balances the intense richness of French triple-creams with the accessible flavor profile of traditional Brie, making it uniquely appealing to both cheese connoisseurs and newcomers.

IngredientRichnessFlavor ProfileTexture
Mt TamVery HighButtery, mushroomy, subtle herbsCreamy, dense
Brillat-SavarinVery HighLactic, tangy, more pronouncedSilky, melting
CamembertMediumEarthy, barnyardy, robustSupple, firmer
Saint AndréVery HighSweet cream, mild mushroomUltra-creamy, spreadable

Substitutes

Swap in Saint-André, Brillat-Savarin, or Délice de Bourgogne: all triple-cream bloomy rinds with 75 % butterfat and similar mushroom-cream flavor. For a West-Coast vibe, Red Hawk (also Cowgirl) gives a washed-rind funk but melts the same. Look for “triple-crème” on the label and aim for 200 g wheels to mimic Mt Tam’s size and ripening speed.

  • Saint André. Provides similar richness and creaminess with a milder flavor profile lacking Mt Tam's distinctive mushroom notes.
  • Pierre Robert. Matches the triple-cream decadence with a slightly more complex, longer-aged profile.

Storage

  • Whole Wheels. Store in the refrigerator at 35-40°F (2-4°C) for up to three weeks
  • Cut Portions. Wrap in cheese paper or parchment followed by loose plastic wrap for up to one week
  • Serving Preparation. Remove from refrigeration 30-60 minutes before serving for optimal texture and flavor
  • Transportation. Use insulated bags when bringing home from the store, especially in warm weather

Mt Tam represents the pinnacle of American artisanal cheese-making: a perfect marriage of French technique and California terroir. While many see it as merely "fancy Brie," its triple-cream richness and distinctive flavor profile set it apart from European counterparts. Historically significant as part of America's cheese renaissance, it's equally at home on an elegant cheese board, melted into a special grilled cheese, or enjoyed simply with fresh fruit and honey.

Let Mt Tam come to room temperature before serving, and you'll be rewarded with its full symphony of flavors and that irresistible creamy texture that makes it a true California treasure.

— Francesco

Last reviewed: July 13, 2025

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Tags
creamybutterymildbloomy rindsoft ripenedtriple creammeltingspreadingflavor carriercaliforniaamericanbay areacheese boardappetizersnackno cookready to eatsimple prephigh fatdairycalcium richcow milkartisan madefarmsteadrefrigeratedspecialty cheesedeli sectioniconicfoodie favoritemust try